It started in Naples
I suppose it all started when Thomas, my father, joined the Navy and escaped the tiny world of Bolivar, TN, which is where I happen to live right now.
Daddy had already spent time in cool places like Morocco, and by the time I came along my family was living in Naples, Italy. Today, I don't know how many actual memories of Naples I have. My mother, Martha, absolutely fell in love with Italy and to this day loves to tell about her years in that country. Weekends in Florence, buying hand-tailored suits, eating the best pizza in the world, learning the language. According to her, I had a babysitter named Mario and we were inseparable. That could explain a lot. However it happened, I've been a Nomad all of my adult life and have spent a lot of time in Southern Italy.
A few winters ago, before I started my travel business, I spent two months on the island of Capri. Capri is located in the Bay of Naples, right about where the "instep" of the boot is. It was my third trip to Capri (pronounced CA-phi) in 5 years and I wanted to experience it off season.
I flew directly to Naples, where a car was waiting to take me to the harbor. There are two ways to get from Naples to Capri, by ferry or by helicopter. I took the 75 minute ferry. After you disembark at Marina Grande, the porters take your luggage and deliver it to your hotel for you. From there you can take a taxi up to Capri Village, but I highly recommend the funiculare (tram).
Everyone wondered why a woman like me who had mastered only a little broken Italian would set up house there in January and February. One rumor was that I was Donna Summer -- apparently she was touring Italy at the time. You see, during the winter months the island virtually shuts down. The nightclubs are mostly closed along with many of the better restaurants and shops. It felt like I had the place to myself.
Actually, my boyfriend at the time was going to meet me there, but as usual something came up. So there I was, solo, roaming the deserted streets of Capri in the dead of winter. Each morning I would walk down the covered alleyway from my apartment to the local grocery store and buy food for the day. Later I'd hike down the mountain with my sacchetta (Prada back pack) or sit at one of the overlooks and wait for someone to stop and talk to me. It seldom took long for that to happen. If the weather was good I'd take an hour hike down to the rocky shore toward Villa Jovis. You must be in pretty good shape to do this because climbing the more than 700 steps back up to the village is strenuous.
Autos are not allowed in Capri Village. If you're not on foot you're on a Vespa, and I shared a few joyrides with one the many available fishermen who always seemed to be at leisure. But mostly I walked and hiked, stopping to speak to the local Caprese and often getting invited into their homes for coffee. Everyone wanted to know "my story" and practice their already excellent English skills.
By late afternoon I'd be back at my apartment for a little Italian television. They seem to like Black sitcoms a lot over there, and there's nothing funnier than watching Urkel dubbed in Italian.
Early evenings call for the passeggio, or walk. The unwritten rule is that you look your absolute best without trying too hard. And you stroll, nodding and saying bona serra to all. A leisurely cocktail in the main piazza, maybe a long and late dinner, and that's your typical evening a la Caprese.
I highly recommend a trip to this island. Treat yourself to a few days experiencing how the other half lives. Buy some very expensive coral jewelry, get some sun at the Marina Piccola, purchase some local Limoncello to take home, enjoy some fabulously fresh seafood with white wine from nearby Ischia. Capri is a wonderful combination of luxurious villas, narrow medieval alleyways, and Roman ruins. Although the island has a reputation for being hideously expensive there are plenty of moderately priced hotels with fabulous views.
If you fly directly into Capodichino Airport (Naples) try to arrive early in the day. The last ferry leaves before sundown, but if the weather is not good and you can't get a boat you'll have to spend the night in Naples. (More about Naples next time.)
Better yet, fly into Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Rome) and spend a couple of days in the Eternal City. My personal favorite hotel is the Savoy which is right near the Spanish Steps and the Via Veneto. It's not cheap but the rooms are large and worth the splurge. If you want to spend even more money try the Hassler, Britannia, or Hotel Eden. (If you saw the movie, "The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone" you'll see that her apartment was set in or very near the Hotel Eden.) You can walk most places from any of those locations. Then take the train or a private car down to Naples. The ride will take about 3 hours. (More about Rome in a future post.)
Try to avoid traveling in August. The whole world in on vacation then and you'll just be part of the tourist stampede. My favorite times to visit Italy, or Europe in general, are May/June and September.
-------------------------------------------
Take advantage of the Fly Free feature at http://www.brendaknowstravel.info and save a fortune on airline tickets, update your passport, find accommodations and more.
-------------------------------------------
Stay tuned for more of my personal travel experiences in Cairo, Bangkok, Manilla, Paris, Riyadh/Jeddah, London, Seoul, Athens/Marathon/Greek Islands, Karachi, Turkey, the Virgin Islands, and beyond.
Daddy had already spent time in cool places like Morocco, and by the time I came along my family was living in Naples, Italy. Today, I don't know how many actual memories of Naples I have. My mother, Martha, absolutely fell in love with Italy and to this day loves to tell about her years in that country. Weekends in Florence, buying hand-tailored suits, eating the best pizza in the world, learning the language. According to her, I had a babysitter named Mario and we were inseparable. That could explain a lot. However it happened, I've been a Nomad all of my adult life and have spent a lot of time in Southern Italy.
A few winters ago, before I started my travel business, I spent two months on the island of Capri. Capri is located in the Bay of Naples, right about where the "instep" of the boot is. It was my third trip to Capri (pronounced CA-phi) in 5 years and I wanted to experience it off season.
I flew directly to Naples, where a car was waiting to take me to the harbor. There are two ways to get from Naples to Capri, by ferry or by helicopter. I took the 75 minute ferry. After you disembark at Marina Grande, the porters take your luggage and deliver it to your hotel for you. From there you can take a taxi up to Capri Village, but I highly recommend the funiculare (tram).
Everyone wondered why a woman like me who had mastered only a little broken Italian would set up house there in January and February. One rumor was that I was Donna Summer -- apparently she was touring Italy at the time. You see, during the winter months the island virtually shuts down. The nightclubs are mostly closed along with many of the better restaurants and shops. It felt like I had the place to myself.
Actually, my boyfriend at the time was going to meet me there, but as usual something came up. So there I was, solo, roaming the deserted streets of Capri in the dead of winter. Each morning I would walk down the covered alleyway from my apartment to the local grocery store and buy food for the day. Later I'd hike down the mountain with my sacchetta (Prada back pack) or sit at one of the overlooks and wait for someone to stop and talk to me. It seldom took long for that to happen. If the weather was good I'd take an hour hike down to the rocky shore toward Villa Jovis. You must be in pretty good shape to do this because climbing the more than 700 steps back up to the village is strenuous.
Autos are not allowed in Capri Village. If you're not on foot you're on a Vespa, and I shared a few joyrides with one the many available fishermen who always seemed to be at leisure. But mostly I walked and hiked, stopping to speak to the local Caprese and often getting invited into their homes for coffee. Everyone wanted to know "my story" and practice their already excellent English skills.
By late afternoon I'd be back at my apartment for a little Italian television. They seem to like Black sitcoms a lot over there, and there's nothing funnier than watching Urkel dubbed in Italian.
Early evenings call for the passeggio, or walk. The unwritten rule is that you look your absolute best without trying too hard. And you stroll, nodding and saying bona serra to all. A leisurely cocktail in the main piazza, maybe a long and late dinner, and that's your typical evening a la Caprese.
I highly recommend a trip to this island. Treat yourself to a few days experiencing how the other half lives. Buy some very expensive coral jewelry, get some sun at the Marina Piccola, purchase some local Limoncello to take home, enjoy some fabulously fresh seafood with white wine from nearby Ischia. Capri is a wonderful combination of luxurious villas, narrow medieval alleyways, and Roman ruins. Although the island has a reputation for being hideously expensive there are plenty of moderately priced hotels with fabulous views.
If you fly directly into Capodichino Airport (Naples) try to arrive early in the day. The last ferry leaves before sundown, but if the weather is not good and you can't get a boat you'll have to spend the night in Naples. (More about Naples next time.)
Better yet, fly into Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Rome) and spend a couple of days in the Eternal City. My personal favorite hotel is the Savoy which is right near the Spanish Steps and the Via Veneto. It's not cheap but the rooms are large and worth the splurge. If you want to spend even more money try the Hassler, Britannia, or Hotel Eden. (If you saw the movie, "The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone" you'll see that her apartment was set in or very near the Hotel Eden.) You can walk most places from any of those locations. Then take the train or a private car down to Naples. The ride will take about 3 hours. (More about Rome in a future post.)
Try to avoid traveling in August. The whole world in on vacation then and you'll just be part of the tourist stampede. My favorite times to visit Italy, or Europe in general, are May/June and September.
-------------------------------------------
Take advantage of the Fly Free feature at http://www.brendaknowstravel.info and save a fortune on airline tickets, update your passport, find accommodations and more.
-------------------------------------------
Stay tuned for more of my personal travel experiences in Cairo, Bangkok, Manilla, Paris, Riyadh/Jeddah, London, Seoul, Athens/Marathon/Greek Islands, Karachi, Turkey, the Virgin Islands, and beyond.
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2/11/2008 6:49 AM
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Brends...this version is great
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Excellent article and information about the Island of Capri! Hopefully I can visit in 2008...this article brings it to life for me!
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i actually like the presentation of the site
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Wow, I feel like booking a flight to Italy right NOW!
Please keep us all posted on your fabulous travel experiences.
Beverly
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