US Virgin Islands

My favorite offshore destination is St. Thomas in the USVI.  It is the one place where I know I can relax and do as much or as little as I feel like.

Getting there from the West Coast is an all day event (up to 18 hours counting connections) but as soon as you touch down at Cyril King airport you can't help but be struck with island fever.  As you walk through the arrivals area to claim your luggage you're welcomed with a rum punch to tide you over.  Then you queue up at the taxi stand to pile into a van for your hotel or condo.  I really prefer condos to a hotels because I hate waiting for room service. 

Here is my typical first day in St. Thomas.  I arrive at my home for the week, usually Magen's Bay or Bluebeard's Castle.  Bluebeard's is closer to the action.  Magen's is on a mountain top, the weather is cooler, but you are depending on taxis to get anywhere.  As soon as I inspect the room I grab a taxi into town to go grocery shopping.  Meaning, lots of bottled water, beer, and duty-free liquor.  Everything else is available at the resort.  It's still daylight and I shower and change and go down to the pool to see who else is in town.  After 10 or more trips, it's normal to see some of the same guests.  Some resorts have a weekly welcome party with steel drum music and dinner but I'm equally content to just enjoy the warm humid climate and gaze at the cruise ships.
After a day or two of reading poolside I may venture into town.  There is a great straw market where you can buy anything from knockoff handbags to apparel.  Then I'll do a little window shopping in the duty-free district.  You can easily kill half a day just cruising in and out of the shops.  Before you leave you should order a case or two of liquor and have it delivered to the airport.  The prices are about a third of what you pay in the States.

For a romantic evening out my favorite beach side restaurant is Mimi's in the Red Hook district.  My first experience at Mimi's was with a friend.  The outdoor tables are literally a few feet from the water.  As the sun set, the biggest, orangest moon I'd ever seen rose between two hills.  The weather was as perfect as the martinis.  The curried stuffed lobster we ordered was sheer bliss.  The key lime pie was to die for, and I managed to crack the recipe code to add to my line of desserts. 

Another must is to take the ferry over to St. John, which docks at Cruz Bay.  Lively bars there, nice art galleries to explore.  You can take a jeep tour of the island with is 2/3 national park, or if you're feeling adventuresome rent a car and try to drive on the left side of the road.  It's not easy, and the other drivers will remind you in no uncertain terms that you're on the wrong side.  If you make it to one of the deserted beaches you'll feel like you're on Fantasy Island.

Sapphire Beach is the place to see and be seen on Sunday afternoons.  The place is packed with locals and tourists listening and dancing to live music, playing in the water, or just lounging on the beach.

Coki Bay is more of a local hangout.  I like to watch the old timers playing cards and slapping dominoes.  You can snorkel, rent diving equipment, boogie boards and the like.  Mostly I like to imagine myself getting totally back to nature and selling hand made jewelry to tourists.

If you have a day to spare, reserve a spot on one of the boat tours to the British Virgin Islands.  The usual itinerary is Virgin Gorda (The Baths), Jost Van Dyke, Marina Cay, and Guana Island.  The Baths are famous for the many grottoes and rooms formed by giant round boulders scattered across white powdery beaches.  It's magnificent, especially if you dive.  Jost Van Dyke is a tiny little 4 mile island of 200 residents and is famous for its Soggy Dollar Bar.  To get there you must swim ashore or take a boogie board.  Then, drink in hand, find a hammock and relax.

If you go, don't over pack.  Take it from me, you will wear just a few outfits during your visit.  For women, bathing suits, shorts and tee shirts will get you into most places.  Maybe one all purpose dress.  Frankly, you can buy a $10 sarong in any of the market stalls, fashion it into a dress and you're good to go.  For men, khaki shorts and a shirt and topsiders should work for most dinner establishments.  Remember, it's hot, humid and casual.

 

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